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You'll obtain El Charro Mexican Grill docked in one of the mini-malls that flank the arterial Troy-Schenectady Road like gills. New, clean, busy most nights, with dining booths to one side and a bar on the other. It stakes its affirm on "authentic Mexican cuisine" and I know the market niche they're after. I've been in umpteen Mexican restaurants like this, from Tampa to Texas. Quick bites, fast service, cheap drinks, happy hour faces. We could leave it at that but El Charro promises "the better side of fine dining," and I have to stop them there. Established Mexican food doesn't have to be authentic, but it does have to make the grade. And while there are some perky parts to dining "El Charro" — take the fresh salads and some commendable flavors — air force lets them down. And not in the forgivable "my waiter's having a bad day" sort of way but in dishes that leave you wondering why they're soaking wet and how long they've languished in the kitchen. No one wants a soggy taco. Through the room and there's a large poster of a Mexican cowboy — el charro — looming to the rear, and terra cotta paint colors providing the requisite adobe vibe. Rows of liquid shine behind the bar, soda guns are in near permanent use, up-lit bottles of Patron glow beatifically and curled tube lights advertise Mexican beer. A yammering bar cluster dominated by men in creased suits and monochromatic Regis Philbin shirts and ties keeps the noise level high. Tufted brown pleather booths maintain chattering couples and office workers sipping happy hour drinks, while a roaring gas fire warms the shuffling feet of a waiting gather. The voluminous selection of 50-plus dishes on plastic-coated menus is helped along with color photos like the cheat-sheets waggled at tourists in Chinatown. And before ordering, even more surprises: A companionless chicken taco was rush-delivered to the table, then apologetically whisked away. Mouth-puckering salt and tequila confirmed it instead as a cloyingly considerate sangria-margarita ($8. 95), but our server laughed and left it behind, perhaps hoping I'd want it later. A saucer of salsa was indistinguishable from big shot-brand taco sauce and our crisp chips made forlorn swan dives into the shallows emerging like pale nudists with sunburn. This not too bad of rich Mexican fast food is designed to keep frosted fiesta cocktails down and we wasted no time in scarfing it up. I can pick out ideal flautas with the best of them, but my appreciation of good Mexican food has been honed stateside... I wanted a barometer of authenticity and brought along a friend who goes to Mexico more continually than I get to the mall. We fought for words to describe the El Charro black bean soup ($4. 79) and while authentic wasn't one, "warm gazpacho" fit the bill: a charming but thin broth harboring punches of distinctly separate flavors — cilantro, tomato, pepper and onion —... Any cook would deduce those itty-bitty beans needed more time to reduce and meld into the familiar murky depths of black bean soup. Authentic or not, we liked it. A spicy chicken soup ($4. 79) was a caboose classic, the broth only missing tartness from a wedge of lime or a cooling complement of diced avocado. Mid-soup, a waiter announced "tostadas de ceviche" ($8. 25) were unavailable as they had not any, but, oddly, I could wait 20 minutes — presumably for the raw shrimp and tilapia to "cure" in citrus. I agreed but the waiter was soon back — still no ceviche — suggesting tostadas de camerones (cooked shrimp) in place of. Remarkably, the tostadas showed up with ceviche. Setting aside confusion, the shrimp were beautifully fresh, in that perfect texture window before ceviche gets too sympathetic, laced with a feisty medley of citrus, cilantro, tomato, onion and jalapeno that danced the Mexican jarabe on my tongue. But underneath lay a wet blanket of unhappiness: the once-crispy tostadas sodden and scrunched up like cast-off hankies. Finally, "tacos al pastor" ($10. 95) rang my guest's authenticity bell with sauteed pork and a risqu al pastor sauce wrapped in a warm double-layer of soft corn tortilla tacos and a crunchy little citrus-cilantro salsa. ) Regrettably, the side of refried beans — pureed into pudding — held as much flavor as echelon 1 baby food.
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If you don’t have the be that as it may or patience to wait for a charcoal grill to heat up, I’d recommend getting a Weber Spirit E-210 gas grill.
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